|
The Oriental Pearl: You'd Better Duck When You Go to This Restaurant
By Laura Goodwin
The Oriental Pearl. It sounds mysterious and alluring, does it not? I was first tipped off to this restaurant three years ago, and have been back many times since. The reason is this: They have the best Peking duck in the city. Everything I have tasted there is good, but it is the duck that keeps me coming back.
So yesterday, my boyfriend Eric and I headed over to Chinatown, me wearing my reviewer's hat and him not wearing any hat at all. I first called to reserve my duck, something I highly recommend. Just call 433-1817 and tell them you'd like to reserve a half or a whole duck, depending on how many are in your party.
We parked in my favorite secret garage. I took an oath not to reveal its location and may have to commit hari kari for this, but I can keep it to myself no longer. It is at Kearny and Clay, entrance on Kearny. It is $2 an hour. Shhhh.
Back to the Pearl. It may be trite, but I swear that this place really is an undiscovered gem. No one I've talked to knows about it, the Chronicle has never reviewed it, but it is surely some of the best food in Chinatown. I've searched long and hard to verify my claim of best Peking duck -- in three years of extensive eating I've never had better. The duck is served on thin pancakes that they wrap for you at the table. Into these pancakes goes the duck, tufts of carrot and onion shreds and a brown sauce. Living up yet again to my responsibilities as a member of the press, I inquired as to the nature of said sauce. It is called Hoisin sauce, commonly known as "seafood sauce." Now you know.
I could rave about the duck ad infinitum (succulent is the word -- not too fatty, not too lean), but that would leave me no time to tell you about the soup. Their won ton soup is also my favorite in the world, but in this case it may be a matter of taste. The broth is clear, the won tons are light and feathery and the pork is oh so savory. I highly recommend adding some white pepper, usually brought to the table with the soup. Use caution though -- stir it into the soup and do not inhale (unless you are dared or paid money).
Eric and I usually make a meal of just these two dishes (Half a duck for $18 and one order of won ton soup for $8.50), but I can recommend several other dishes I have sampled when we have taken friends along. For example, the lemon chicken ($9.50), the rock cod fish fillet dishes ($11.25) and the snow peas with mushrooms ($8.75) are especially good. Actually, I can't think of anything I've had that I didn't like -- it depends mainly on your own personal taste.
During our last visit, I was feeling daring (and hungry), and so decided to try one of their clay pots. Prior to this I have had one clay pot in my life and it was awful. I've blanked out most of the experience, but the words mushy and gross come quickly to mind. But, calling my courage into play I bravely said, "The Satay baby ribs with vermicelli clay pot please." Out came the pot, sizzling and simmering. I took a sniff. It smelled good, but I was not about to let my guard down. I examined the contents and found ribs (some with bones, some without), clear noodles, a parsley-like garnish, and pineapple. Uh-oh. In most dishes pineapple is a deal-breaker for me. Don't get me wrong, I like pineapple, I just don't think it should fraternize. However, I dug in anyway and thank heaven, because it was delicious!
I don't know how they did it, but all of the flavors melded beautifully in the pot without being overpowered by the fruit. Eric even liked it and he hates pineapple in all of its guises. The only complaint that I had was that the ribs were a little fatty, but the rest of the mixture was wonderful.
Now, as those of you who have read my reviews before probably realize, I am a dessert woman. A meal just isn't complete for me until I've followed it up with something sweet. So it is very convenient that the Pearl offers a selection of their dim sum desserts at dinnertime. Sesame balls can be fried up fresh on request (be careful -- they're hot!), and there is also a yummy mango pudding with cream. Egg custard tarts are nominally available, but every time I ask they are "already gone." However, our waiter put us onto the bakery that makes, in his opinion, the best egg custard tarts in Chinatown. It is called Golden Gate Bakery and can be found on Grant Avenue between Jackson and Pacific. And I agree, the tarts are delicious.
At the conclusion of our meal we declined dessert (in favor of walking up to the aforementioned bakery). However, with our check there came two sesame balls on the house. Was this thanks to my visible notebook and questions concerning spelling? I know not, but let's not be cynical. It was a great end to another great duck.
The Oriental Pearl is open Monday-Sunday 11a.m.-9:30 p.m. It is located at 760 Clay Street in Chinatown. Call 433-1817 for reservations. (Don't forget to reserve your duck!).
|
