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On The Bridge
By Jason Kuan
I tried to find the word engrish in the dictionary (actually, it was www.dictionary.com)
but, not surprisingly, was unable to. So I went to www.urbandictionary.com and
found the following definition: "A form of English characterized by (often
word-by-word) translations from a foreign language." An example of engrish can
often be found on the paper wrappers of disposable chopsticks used in Asian
restaurants: "Please to try your Nice Chinese Food With Chopsticks the
traditional and typical of Chinese glorious history and cultural." You
get the general idea of the message being conveyed, but it is not really English.
It is engrish.
Yoshoku style Japanese food is the culinary equivalent to engrish. Developed
in the Meiji era over a hundred years ago, its literal translation means Western
food. Having experienced and enjoyed Western food, the chefs of Japan tried
to emulate it, resulting in Western food with a Japanese slant. Imagine that
— the first attempts at fusion cuisine took place over 100 years ago.
Restaurants specializing in yoshoku are quite trendy in Tokyo; quite a few eateries
have popped up in Los Angeles and Orange County; though there are far fewer
in the Bay Area, one quirky place with a contemporary setting is On The Bridge,
aptly named for its location on the pedestrian bridge between the Kinetsu and
Kinokuniya buildings in Japantown.
My friend Lucky and I met up with our pals Chofies, Mouse, and Huachai there
for dinner. I had heard about the au gratin rice plates with cheese and was
curious about it. I mean, how many Asian dishes have cheese in them? We were
quickly seated by the hostess at a table situated alongside a wall, the upper
half covered with windows and the lower half filled from end to end entirely
with Japanese manga (comic books). Across from us anime (Japanese cartoons)
was playing on the television placed next to the lucky cats, the ones with the
paws in the air waving for good luck. Behind us hung large oversized posters
of another popular anime, Neon Genesis. The dˇcor was unique and funky
like our waitress Miss Chatterly, who couldn't have been older than 16.
For a young kid, she sure had a lot to say. She was like Cliff Claven from Cheers,
with all kinds of tidbits and trivia. It was almost as if Miss Chatterly were
a standing participant joining us for dinner. But we were getting hungry, and
soon we were asking Miss Chatterly about the menu.
It was interesting to find a hamburger-sandwich ($7.85) and fresh jumbo french
fries ($2.95) offered at a Japanese restaurant. Come to think of it, I've
never seen clam chowder ($2.25) from Japan either. Feeling like something with
a hint of Japanese flair, then order the hamburger steak Japanese style ($10.95)
served with garlic, daikon radish, mushrooms and teriyaki sauce.
Perusing the other offerings on the extensive menu, they claimed to have over
38 curry dishes and over 42 types of pasta. How the heck can you have that many
types of curry? It is a little deceiving: the set-up is kind of like a pizza
with the option to add different toppings. Available additions to your curry
include, but are not limited to seafood, scallops, shrimp, beef, chicken as
well as items such as broccoli, eggplant, tofu, etc. What was impressive, however,
is they claim to be the first curry house in San Francisco, when they set up
shop in 1992.
The variety of pasta dishes was truly extensive, though. They were grouped into
three categories. The first group was Light Pasta ($6.75), spaghetti noodles
prepared in a soy sauce and garlic based Japanese sauce and topped with items
such as cod fish roe (Mentai Ko Spaghetti), fermented soybeans (Natto), and
seasonal Japanese wild vegetables (Sansai). The second category, Japanese Pasta,
used a base similar to the first pasta, but had hardier additions like Calamari
and Kimchee Spaghetti ($9.25) or Ume and Shiso Spaghetti ($7.95 for Japanese
pickled plums, fragrant leaves, and chicken). European pastas filled out the
third category, which had your typical white sauce and red sauce spaghetti plates
(ranging from 7.50 to 10.50).
But we were there for the sinfully cheesy rice gratin dishes ($7.95 to 9.45),
consisting of rice pilaf and bˇchamel sauce, a choice of fillings, and
topped with three kinds of cheese baked to a golden brown. Huachai, a ravenous
carnivore, was persuaded to get the chicken au gratin. Chofies and Mouse, on
the other hand, felt that a vegetable au gratin would suit them better. Lucky
decided on the Japanese wild vegetables and chicken au gratin, which is what
I would have chosen had she not. Since I knew that I'd be able to sample
some of hers, I chose the mushroom au gratin. It was hardy and cheesy. I don't
know how I was able to finish the plate, but afterwards I think it stuck in
my stomach for three or four days. I was not hungry until the next evening.
I think Huachai was somewhat disappointed at the amount of chicken in the plate
after Miss Chatterly talked it up. But then again, Huachai is a mean carnivore,
and probably even half a chicken wouldn't have been enough for her.
On the Bridge is a kooky place with a style all its own. It is a nice place
for a quickie (denoted on the menu) or a pre-movie meal (the AMC Kabuki is just
a short walk away). If you don't feel like sushi but want to try some
traditional non-traditional Japanese food, meet On the Bridge.
On the Bridge
1581 Webster St.
931-2743
Jason Kuan is a first-year pharmacy student.
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