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Fringale: Basque Cuisine With a Modern Twist
By Chris Nguyen
The region of Basque lies in southern France and northern Spain, and its bourgeois-inspired cuisine is elegantly captured by a quaint French bistro called Fringale. Tucked away in SOMA, Fringale specializes in this type of country cuisine, and owner Gerald Hirigoyen consistently delivers with his modern twist to this traditional fare.
Fringale's one-page menu changes on a regular basis, with the exception of a few signature items. The restaurant's dishes -- as unpretentious and simple in its presentation as the menu -- are well proportioned and full of character. This is not to say that your dinner choice has been narrowed down for you, however, as the diverse dishes all look very tempting.
For light starters, puree soups ($6) and fresh salads ($6-9) can awaken the palate in anticipation of the main course. Or if you're in the mood to thoroughly warm up your taste buds, appetizers such as quail stuffed with apple risotto ($13) or cold poached foie gras medallion with fruit compote ($16) are sure to please.
Seafood is a staple in Basque cooking and often seen in stews or sauteed in some type of broth. The mussels braised in shallots and white wine ($15) is a good light dish for seafood lovers, and pairs well with a crisp Muscadet, Sancere, or Chablis. Gamey poultry and meat dishes, quite popular in Basque cooking, are reflected in Fringale's menu. The marinated roast rack of lamb with potato gratin ($19) is in my opinion the best rack of lamb in town. The natural flavor and aroma of the lamb comes through each bite unmasked, and the smoky character of the roast is enhanced by the heavenly marinade. This will pair well with a Ch‰teauneuf du Pape or a well-made C™te du Rh™ne. Other dishes include a flavorful duck leg confit ($16), a moist pork tenderloin confit ($17), and artisan rabbit with fresh herbs and natural jus ($20).
My favorite dessert at Fringale is a warm, flourless chocolate cake topped with fresh berries that melts in your mouth and is simply decadent with a cappuccino or port. Be sure to leave some room for this dessert.
Besides the food, you'll love the intimate setting, friendly service, and charming bar. The restaurant also sells Basque cookbooks as well as the paintings on their walls. Fringale is a great destination for a romantic date, a fun birthday dinner, or just an excursion to sample some delicious French cuisine. Bon appetit.
Fringale Restaurant
570 4th Street
543-0573
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