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India Clay Oven: Nirvana For Your Mouth
By Jason Kuan
Whenever my brother doesn't know what to eat for dinner, he usually calls
me up for suggestions and vice versa. In his infinite knowledge, he thought
Indian food would hit the spot. Tasty Curry, Naan and Curry, and Tikka Masala
came to mind, but I was a bit tired of food from the Inner Sunset region of
India, where kormas taste like saags and aloos taste like masalas. Though a
little farther from the UCSF beaten path and for a couple of bucks more, the
trip to India Clay Oven is worth it when you feel like eating Indian food that
has transcended to a higher level.
The decor of the restaurant was refreshingly elegant and classy. High
ceilings and large windows give the restaurant an open, airy feeling while the
warm wood trim and dark orange paint makes the place feel inviting and comfortable.
The wait staff was attentive and courteous, filling our glasses before the water
ever reached the bottom. It easily could have been a restaurant serving entrŽes
for $15- $20 each. But instead, the average dish ran from $7-$12. While waiting
for our orders, we were served papadum, crisp lentil wafers, with a spicy green
mint chutney as well as a hot and sour tamarind chutney. This made for a nice
appetizer, but we did not have to wait long since our orders arrived in a timely
manner.
The first dish ordered was bhindi masala ($7.95), consisting of fresh cut okra,
chopped onion and stewed tomatoes. Okra is a fickle vegetable: if overcooked,
it becomes slimy and gooey. While this is acceptable in some preparations of
okra, the freshness of the okra was the emphasis of this dish. As such, it was
supple and relatively firm. Okra's subtle essence was contrasted by the
pungent onions and garlic and the acidity of the tomatoes, creating a dish of
balanced flavors.
The next dish that followed was a generous serving of lamb vindaloo ($10.95),
a stew made mostly of lamb and a few potatoes. The lamb had a hint of gaminess,
not overwhelming, but just enough to let you know that it was lamb. Each piece
was tender, like eating a pat of butter. The sauce was spicy, but not to the
point of overwhelming the dish. It can be ordered as mild, medium, or spicy
(we ordered medium). The only minor complaint was that there were only a few
potatoes, but that was easily overlooked.
The last dish we ordered was the chicken tikka kabab ($11.95) boneless cubes
of chicken cooked in a tandoor oven and served on a sizzling platter with onions
and red and green peppers. We were hesitant to order this dish since this is
usually hit or miss. At worst, the chicken is dry and tasteless. But at best,
it is smoky, flavorful, tender and moist. Their preparation was right on and
the amount they gave was very liberal.
Along with the above dishes, we had an order of paratha ($2), buttered multi-layered
whole wheat bread. While it was a little on the dry side, it went extremely
well with the sauce of the bhindi masala and/or the vindaloo. To drink, we ordered
a mango lassi ($2.75), a sweet drink made of Indian mango juice and tangy homemade
yogurt. If you have not had it before, I would say its consistency is closest
to a smoothie. Most lassis are very sweet, which is fine by me. But this lassi
was not overly sweet; the tanginess of the yogurt was excellent in balancing
the sweetness of the mango juice.
Many of the Indian restaurants in the Inner Sunset are not bad. But after a
while, the different entrees on one plate begin to blend into one taste.
Here, the flavors of each entree is bold and distinct, yet complement
one another when eaten together. I was extremely impressed with my brother's
choice and will definitely be making treks out to this restaurant to try some
of the other dishes offered on this extensive menu.
India Clay Oven
2436 Clement St.
San Francisco, CA 94121
751-0505
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