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Chaya, a Place Definitely Worth a Try
By Kuo Lian
For those of you too absorbed with the Democratic primaries, here's a quick diversion: Chaya Brasserie has fantastic food and a funky beat. OK, now get back to the front page. For those of us who look forward to the Chronicle food section a little too much on Wednesdays, here's the story of the Asian-French fusion that is Chaya Brasserie.
The story of Chaya requires something of a history lesson. Chaya Brasserie San Francisco is the third of a franchise of restaurants that also includes locations in Beverly Hills and Venice (the Beach, not Italy). Opened in San Francisco in 2000, Chaya is helmed by the renowned Chef Shigefumi Tachibe, a pioneer of French-Japanese cuisine in the early '80s. Adorned with many awards, Tachibe was featured in Time magazine with Wolfgang Puck and Jeremiah Tower as innovators in the "new gourmet" movement about a decade later.
There's more, however. The Chaya family name has long been in the restaurant industry, originating in Hayama, Japan, more than 350 years ago. With an ever present focus on warm hospitality and personalized service, the initial tea houses expanded to include French bistros and patisseries, eventually culminating in the West Coast franchise today.
But enough history, on to the review. With an incredible view of the evening-lit Bay Bridge and situated about two blocks south of the renovated Ferry Terminal (home of fantastic weekend farmer's markets and gourmet boutiques), Chaya occupies some prime real estate.
Setting the Scene
The restaurant offers limited outdoor seating and two main dining areas in addition to an expansive bar. Upon entering through the main revolving door, under large brushed aluminum letters spelling out the restaurant's name, one is struck by the eclectic and striking architecture and decor of the restaurant. The main (south) dining room is divided into two areas by a long, lit, acrylic divider. To the left is an extensive bar area, with room for a hip crowd to gather around the 21-foot zinc bar as well as sit at high tables with their drinks. To the right is one of the two main dining areas, this one a little more bustling, as pulsing house music drifts from the bar side. Stretching across the entire back of the room is the open kitchen, a stark contrast to the rest of the room in white tile, white china, and gleaming cookware. A small army of chefs hustle in the back preparing the exquisite dishes, wearing crisp white coats and the shorter classic Japanese white hats giving the group a very functional look.
A small connection near the back of the restaurant leads to the calmer north dining room, which affords diners more of an intimate experience with dampened noise (the main room sports quite a din with kitchen and bar and music all in full swing). There is carpeting in the north dining room, along with lacquered paneling on the walls, as well as a traditional sushi bar in the back of the room. The connecting hallway is impressive in its own right, showcasing some of the extensive selection of wines that the restaurant stocks.
The decor of the restaurant really can't be described by any word other than eclectic. Several different aspects of architecture and design intersect to create an atmosphere both intense and full of intrigue. Large mirrors and noir-esque Chinese opera prints adorn the red brick walls. Huge orange-painted iron girders spring from the walls and floor connecting leather upholstered seats to a rattan (!?) covered ceiling. Large square sparkly gold lights also hang from the ceiling, giving some light to the orange/red hue of the room.
We were seated at a small table near the rear by the busy kitchen, and the place was hopping. A good after work crowd surrounded the bar, while the dining area was nearly filled to the brim. The mix of patrons was as mixed as the decor, with a range of ages and dress (they say business casual over the phone, but it can range from suits to the casual collared shirt and khakis). Over the din of kitchen and bar sounds, diners lean in to hold conversations — for a quieter experience, asked to be seated in the north dining room.
Getting Started
We decided start off with some water and a Bellini cocktail, a mix of Italian spumante and white peach puree. Very refreshing. (A note to diners: Chaya offers both sparkling and still water, the still being Voss bottled at $7.50 a pop — to save, ask for tap specifically). In terms of drinks, Chaya offers a variety of interesting cocktails, mainly variations on the martini — there is even a specific ultra-refined Chaya vodka. Other drinks include trendy apple-tinis and mojiarita (mojito and margarita), as well as sake-based drinks such as the raspberry sake-tini. The wine list at Chaya is also very extensive, encompassing vintages from around the world. As a bonus, there is an excellent selection by the glass as well as by half-bottle. The sake list is also ample.
When you are seated, you get both the sushi and dinner menus. Let me just mention to you now that the sushi at Chaya will not get treated in this article. Suffice it to say that there is a good selection of different sashimi and sushi rolls, and like the raw and seared options in the dinner menu, the fish is extremely fresh.
I decided to go with a roasted oyster appetizer, pan-seared duck, and dessert. My companion decided on the soup du jour, French onion, followed by roasted sea bass with gourmet mushrooms, "fungi con pazza." We received fresh bread (seemed like Acme bread) and butter immediately. I should take the opportunity to mention here that the service at Chaya was impeccable and swift, indeed as promised by the family history.
We received our appetizers within minutes, and were very impressed. All of the food at Chaya is artfully presented on graceful yet functional white dinnerware, seeming to allow the food to speak for itself. The roasted oysters were no exception. Perfectly cooked with truffle oil, the Hama Hama oysters were served on a crisp square of andouille sausage and potato hash. MmmÉso tender, not chewy at all, and crisp at the browned edges, the oysters were absolutely perfect. I could have stopped there with a couple more of those. The French onion soup was also meticulously assembled. Made with Gruyere cheese, the flavor of the soup was intensely sweet and thick with caramelized onions. The Gruyere added an additional dimension and wonderful rich flavor to the soup.
The Main Course
The sea bass was impeccably prepared and crisp, with a flavorful crust covering a moist and flaky meat. The fish was presented on a melange of gourmet mushrooms, pearl onions, and encircled by a delicately flavored sauce. The generous chanterelle mushrooms in particular added dimension to the dish with their substantive buttery flavor and texture. Tender young green beans served on the side, seemed fresh from the garden.
The pan-seared duck breast was also exquisite, served medium rare, over a peppercorn and tangerine sauce. The duck was amazingly tender and had excellent flavor, with hints of liver and caramel, reminiscent of Peking duck taken to new heights. The accompanying galette was made from winter roots and was incredibly flaky in its filo shell. Served piping hot, the little patty also had marvelous flavor with tinges of pine nuts.
Needless to say, it was a fantastic meal. Again, the time spent waiting was very short for each course, and various employees checked in to make sure our experience was going well. In fact, a woman next to us seemed to be very well known to the restaurant — with numerous employees stopping by to say hi and ensure that she was taken care of. Though we pondered if she was some sort of local celebrity, one thing was sure — everyone was treated like family, famous or not. Our server presented our dining options smartly, and took care to ensure that every aspect of our meal was seen to.
The Sweet Spot
Thank goodness dessert was included. We were fully satisfied with our meals, but when the dessert options came along, we were definitely glad that we had a bit of room left. I chose the Meyer lemon sorbet with Meyer lemon panna cotta. My companion chose the malted vanilla and chocolate creme brulee, served with malted chocolate ice cream. The desserts at Chaya don't disappoint. The sorbet was incredibly crisp on the palette and the panna cotta perfectly made with a creamy Meyer lemon center. The duo was also served with jellied slices of the succulent lemon — a perfect complement to the dish. There was nothing to say about the malted creme brulee, except that it was simply delightful. The ice cream was rich, as was the vanilla and chocolate custard coexisting under the crisp burnt sugar shell.
Final Thoughts
I couldn't help thinking to myself throughout the meal that this was definitely a place to come back to, not only for the food but also for the incredible service. Unfortunately the bank would probably not stand up — our tab with cocktail, appetizers, entrees and desserts, came out just above $120 including tax and tip. But it was definitely worth every penny. Perhaps when the weather is nicer, a patio experience at Chaya might be in orderÉ
In any case, if you're ever out toward the embarcadero shopping the fine offerings at the Ferry Terminal or at embarcadero Center, Chaya is yet another example of the fine dining options available at the posher side of town. I'll still be thinking about those oysters a week from now.
Chaya Brasserie
132 The embarcadero
(between Mission and Howard)
777-8688
www.thechaya.com
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