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Where Dinner is a More than a Meal: A Dining Experience at Bushi-tei By Alan Teo American restaurants – for good reason – have a reputation for sloppy service and whopping proportions. No surprise, then, that we have an epidemic of obesity and cling to a confusing culture of tipping to ensure good service. Bushi-tei, thankfully, bucks that tendency, offering exceptional service and artfully-presented dishes of modest portions. For gastronomists seeking a true dining experience, at prices more moderate than fancy French competitors like La Folie, Bushi-tei may be a bullseye. Taken from Japanese words meaning “samurai” and “upscale,” Bushi-tei is helmed by a tandem team of Japanese, the chef trained in France and the owner with an incredible sense for fastidious detailing. And a Japanese philosophy and aesthetic permeates the restaurant. One walks out of the Japantown icon marveling and reminiscing about the magazine-photo quality presentation of every dish and the sublime fusion of French and Japanese ingredients. Moreover, it is the good Japanese dining sensibilities that add layers of elegance—without ornate overstatement—to the dining experience. There are no chandeliers overhead, no bright red carpet unfurled, nor intricately inscribed silverware; instead, a kimono-clad hostess greets one upon entrance, 19th century lumber salvaged from a rural Japanese home adorn the walls, and a trip to the bathroom is enlivened by a hi-tech Japanese toilet with seat-warmer, bidet and blow dry functions. The minimalist silverware and chopsticks are set upon a custom-designed ceramic holder. At the evening’s conclusion, the bill is tastefully tucked in a petite origami-esque envelope. From aesthetic décor to the impeccable presentation of dishes accented by bite-size interludes, the evening felt much like dining in a French restaurant in downtown Tokyo. These qualities have caught the attention of the world-famous (but Francocentric) Michelin guide reviewers too. Bushi-tei earns one star from them, one of just a handful of restaurants in the City to garner a star rating. (Even one star is a major accomplishment, and Michelin stars are taken very seriously—one French chef was rumored to have committed suicide because of concern about his restaurant’s rating dropping from three to two stars.) Bushi-tei, which opened just two years ago, bills itself as “French-California cuisine with a touch of Japanese flair,” However, from the initial complimentary starches, in which genmai (brown rice) is dotted in the bread and nori (dried seaweed) coats the crackers, through the appetizers and entrees, in which citrus yuzu or potent shiso herb complement flavors, Japanese ingredients actually thoroughly infuse the cuisine. Portions too are modest but reasonable if having a three- or five-course dinner. Let’s be clear, though, that this is not a stuff-your-face-full Americanized restaurant: one disgruntled Yelp reviewer, doubtless accustomed that, commented that Bushi-tei is “perfect if you have the appetite of a caterpillar.” When I ate at Bushi-tei, our group of five began with several appetizers to share. Each dish is impeccably explained by the waiter who seems to know every detail of every food item. A lobster and crab salad containing chrysanthemum leaves, papaya, and bacon dressed in ginger cream and curry oil, was both exotic and sophisticated. The seasonal soup, a carrot puree, was so smooth and creamy it was hard to believe it was made without dairy as the waiter noted. One in our group explored the chef’s versatility with the five-course omakase tasting menu, in which the selection of dishes is left to the chef’s discretion. The rest of us tried various main dishes including seared Maine scallops with a black rice tabbouleh and cucumber yogurt and grilled Sonoma lamb chop with Satsuma yams and haricot vert (the fancy French couldn’t disguise that it was simply green beans). Particularly outstanding was the tenderloin of Kobe beef, which lived up to the Kobe reputation for tenderness. Another highlight was the pan roasted Sonoma duck breast, nicely encrusted in a sweet dried chutney and delicately drizzled with mascarpone mustard. Japanese are not known for their desserts, so I opted for the quintessential French cheese, fromage blanc. The incredibly soft, creamy white cheese was drizzled with a sweet spearmint sauce—superb. A typical selection of appetizer, entrée, and dessert will likely run $50, certainly expensive but well under the range of other competitors in the fierce upscale French cuisine market in San Francisco. If you are looking for a trendy, sophisticated dining experience with a Japanese elegance and that excites the cuisine, Bushi-tei would be an excellent choice. More information can be found at www.bushi-tei.com. Alan Teo is a recent graduate of the School of Medicine and an incoming resident in the adult psychiatry residency training program at UCSF. Bushi-Tei Four out of five stars | ||
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