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California Culinary Academy: Dining Bliss

By Shirley Wong
Staff Writer

Nestled at 625 Polk Street, the California Culinary Academy opens its doors twice a week to offer a buffet of dishes prepared by current students of the school.

Upon entering this much-praised school, you will notice carpeted floors, fine glassware, a high ceiling, servers in tuxedo and the dessert table draped in elegant silk. Except for the novice hospitality-school student tumbling to fill your glass with water, the school converted restaurant is quite classy. Instead of wall paper, glass lines the entire left hand side of the room so guests can admire the entire stainless steel kitchen where the creations of all dishes take place. Guests can marvel at the cleanliness and enormity of the ovens and stoves.

When you follow your eyes along the carpet and look up towards the back of the room, you will notice a “Grey’s Anatomy” mini stadium where students sit to gaze at their instructor chefs at work far below. In the center of the restaurant, three round tables hoist massive wooden boards artfully decorated with cold dishes and finger foods—meats, sushi and pasta salads.

While guests rushed with empty plates to the cold cuts in front, I made my way to the back of the dining room where the student chefs introduced their own dishes kept warm in hot plates. Dishes with names like “cranberry and mushroom marinated quail,” “coconut-smothered salmon,” “tarragon beef stew,” “prime rib marinated to perfection” seemed too divine to pass up on the first round, so I filled my plate to the rim. I rushed back to my table to find my guests on their second plate. I took my first bite (coconut salmon) and the flavors danced on my palate. The salmon was cooked to perfection, a bit juicy with ample amount of coconut cream sauce delicately masking the fish flavor. My second bite, cranberry and quail, was another surprise, a tad tart but sweet, the cranberry sauce complemented the soft quail meat quite well and the tender mushrooms added a different texture to the dish. The tarragon beef stew was marinated in a sauce of brown spices, a bit salty but bursting with flavor. With so many spices dancing on my palate I had to down a glass of water before going for my next plate.

I made my way to the cold cuts this time. The presentation was far more impressive than the hot plates — flower carved watermelons, sushi, stuffed meats, arranged like the tail of a peacock or the body of a fish. Tiny crackers were meticulously decorated with cucumber stars, carefully folded cold meats, dabbed with cream cheese and sprinkled with saffron. But I must say that though the students have mastered the art of presentation, they still have awhile away to master the art of taste of their cold dishes. I gathered about five bite-size treats and the only flavor distinct in all five was cream cheese. The raisin and cranberry stuffed cold meats, though pretty, tasted quite plain. Nevertheless the hot dishes were definitely not disappointing.

4 stars for taste
2 stars for cost (about $45/person)
3 stars total

California Culinary Academy
625 Polk Street
San Francisco, CA 94102

The buffet is only offered on Tuesdays and Thursdays.

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