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Restaurant Review: Cuckoo For Coco 500
By Jason Kuan
Arts Editor
It all started several weeks ago when my friend Bling text-messaged me with
an urgent request: "Need to know of a nice restaurant for a friend."
Apparently, Bling's friend was coming from out of town. This friend wanted
to take his girlfriend out to a nice restaurant. And so, when I asked my pal
Lucky if she had any suggestions, her eyes lit up, "Are we going somewhere
special?" Oops… I know Bling didn't mean to get me into trouble.
Soon I was looking for restaurants for not only Bling's friend, but for
Lucky and myself. During my recent search, I stumbled upon Coco 500, one of
the hottest new restaurants to open in 2005. Was it still a shining star, or
was it a supernova that had already burnt out?
If there is a correlation between "hot" factor and difficulty in
getting a reservation for two on a Wednesday evening, then this place is still
blazing. When I called for reservations that day at 3 p.m., I was told they
were booked until 8:30, unless I could eat before 5:30 and finish before 7.
Fortunately, Lucky and I were headed for a flight out that night, so the 5:30
reservation worked perfectly. However, when we got there, I was admittedly underwhelmed
by the fact that there were only two other patrons. I was growing skeptical
of how deserving it was of the rave reviews I had heard. I prepared myself for
an over-hyped dining experience. What we got, though, was one of the most delicious,
reasonably priced meals Lucky and I have shared so far.
The menu is divided into six sections. From the small starts section, we opted
for two selections, the first being the four pieces of silky, thinly sliced
coriander crusted seared ahi ($8). The tiny slivers of lemon rind atop the ahi
added a tartness whose presence was powerful enough to be noticed but subtle
enough not to overwhelm the fish. The coriander seed crust added a contrasting
crunchy texture and an earthy taste that highlighted the fish.
The second appetizer we ordered was the duck liver terrine ($6). When I suggested
the terrine to Lucky, she gave me a quizzical look, as I am not a big fan of
liver. In fact, I have only enjoyed liver one time in my life (foie gras from
a French restaurant). But the chef's preparation actually allowed me to
enjoy liver for the second time ever. A dense piece — aptly described
by Lucky as "meatloafy" — was served with a side of mustard
and accompanied by pickled vegetables (red onions, carrot, pepper, pickles)
and crostini. The terrine, which could either be spread over crostini or eaten
with pickled vegetables, was not in the least bit chalky like most preparations.
Instead, it was smooth with a lightly smoky flavor. There was still the distinct
hint of liver aftertaste that disappeared when eaten with the sour accompaniments
— either mustard or vegetables.
From the leaf section, we ordered the rocket and manila mango ($14). Velvety
mango was served alongside creamy avocado and topped with minutely diced ginger,
whole toasted hazelnuts and oil. The ginger added a slightly spicy undertone
while the hazelnuts gave it a nice crunch. On either side was a tangle of arugula
topped with shrimp. The bitter arugula, usually my last choice for leafs in
a lettuce, complemented the sweet fruits perfectly. The shrimp was firm and
tender, adding a nicely contrasting texture to the mango and avocado. Unfortunately,
it was difficult salad to eat together. But when you are able to get a little
of each ingredient in each bite, it is a pleasure for the tongue, both in taste
and texture.
Afraid that we would be ordering too much food, we skipped the a la plancha
section, from which the calamari with sweet szegedi chilies and spring garlic
($10) came, instead opting for the beef cheek ($15) from the wood oven section.
For the second time that evening, Lucky shot me a "are you kidding?"
look when I ordered it, but it turned out to be our favorite dish of the night.
A braised piece of cheek about the size of a fist was rolled in mustard and
coated with a cornmeal crust before being roasted in the oven. The result was
a tender cut that melts in the mouth. The whipped horseradish, whose creamy
consistency allowed for control over the amount used, was not overly spicy.
The side of watercress was light and refreshing, perfectly balancing the cheek.
The last section from which we ordered, not including dessert, was California
dirt. We had trouble deciding between the potato gratin ($5), made with Yukon
gold potatoes and gruyere cheese; and calzotes ($5). The waiter said that they
were spring onions caramelized in the same fashion as that found at festivals
in Spain. This side dish was a little too soft and mushy with not much taste,
the only disappointment of the evening.
After five dishes, we were pleasantly satisfied without being overly stuffed.
It wasn't that the portions were stingy; rather, the meal was light and
satisfying. Well presented and expertly prepared, these elegant yet simple dishes
made the evening thoroughly enjoyable. The vacherin ($8.50) from the dessert
menu made the evening unbelievable: a scoop of coffee ice cream served over
a crunchy Swiss meringue and topped with candied almonds and swimming in crème
anglaise and bittersweet chocolate sauce. Delicious without being overly sweet,
this surprisingly light dessert was the crowning moment of the evening.
By 6 p.m., every seat in the place was taken. If you want to try some of the
freshest new food in San Francisco, make an advanced reservation or have an
early dinner.
Coco 500
500 Brannan St.
543-2222
Jason Kuan is a second-year pharmacy student.
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